Fuerteventura
Fuerteventura is the second largest of the Canary Islands after Tenerife. The island is famous for its beautiful sandy beaches, azure waters, and temperate climate. As a lover of such landscapes, I could not pass this place indifferently. I was not deterred by the strong winds that blow on the island (the wind is strongest from May to September). I visited Fuerteventura with my family in April and at times the wind was troublesome, but it was said to be weak anyway. The island was formed by a volcanic eruption and is the oldest of the Canary Islands. The landscape of Fuerteventura is desert-like, as there is not much green on the island. When you travel around the island, you get the impression that you are on another planet. In appearance, it resembles the planet Mars, as the soil in many places is reddish. The atmosphere is one of peace and tranquility. I am very impressed that each of the Canary Islands is completely different.
Where is Fuerteventura?
Fuerteventura is an island of Spain located in the Atlantic Ocean. It is part of the Canary Islands archipelago. Its location is at the same altitude as Mexico or Florida, and it is 100 km from the coast of Africa.
The weather
The climate in Fuerteventura is subtropical, which means that the island is warm all year round. The warmest months are from June to August when the temperature reaches around 28°C, and the other months around 25°C. The winds at this latitude effectively disperse the clouds, meaning Fuerteventura has the lowest annual rainfall in the archipelago.
The island of Fuerteventura often experiences calima. This atmospheric phenomenon is linked to an easterly wind called the sirocco, which blows from Africa and carries hot air masses and grains of sand from the Sahara. One day we were able to observe this phenomenon. The sun looked like it was behind a fog.
South of the island
Morro Jable
Morro Jable is a town and tourist resort in the south of the island. I chose a hotel in this location because this part of the island has one of the most beautiful beaches in Fuerteventura with a length of 4 km and is the least windy place on the island due to the nearby mountain range. Playa del Matorral is a beautiful long and wide beach with white sand and turquoise water all around. The sandy shoreline stretches from the old town of Morro Jable to Las Gaviotas. There are designated sections of the beach for naturists, but unfortunately, they can also be found outside of these zones. Morro Jable is divided into two parts: Solana Matorral-Jandia with hotels, shops, and restaurants, and the old town and port of Morro Jable, where you’ll find several local restaurants with delicious food, but be aware that there may be a problem communicating in English. The older generation mainly runs the restaurants. There are ferries from the port to the neighboring island of Gran Canaria (the trip takes about 2 hours). Another attraction in town is the Faro de Morro Jable lighthouse.
Cofete Beach
Cofete Beach is located in the southern part of the island of Fuerteventura on the Jandía Peninsula. It is one of the wildest beaches in Fuerteventura and also the most majestic I have been to. On the spot you will experience an extensive 12 km long beach, strong winds, big waves and mountains with mist floating above. The sand is fine and golden-black.
You won’t find any infrastructure or attractions here, because the main attraction is contact with nature. It is a place that has not been touched by human hands. Cofete Beach is different from all the others.
To get to the beach you have to take a few kilometers of dirt road, called gravel road, because the asphalt ends just after Moro Jable. If you rent a car, make sure you have gravel road insurance.
Swimming is forbidden on this beautiful beach because of the presence of powerful currents, invisible to the naked eye. Unfortunately, there are still people who break the ban and die in this place.
Villa Wintera
Villa Wintera is a mysterious building at the foot of Fuerteventura’s highest peak, Pico de la Zarza, 807 meters above sea level. The building was designed by Gustav Winter, a German engineer who lived in Morro Jable just before the Second World War.
In 1941, the Spanish authorities put Gustav Winter in charge of the peninsula, from which the inhabitants were resettled and the area around the villa was turned into a militarized zone.
In 1946, the construction of Villa Winter began. It was heavily guarded by German guards, and the workers had to leave the construction site after each day’s work. The building has a watchtower and the walls are as thick as a bunker. Near Cofete Beach is a cemetery where those who worked on constructing the road and the villa are buried.
What happened inside the villa is shrouded in mystery and numerous legends.
One of them says that numerous plastic surgeries were performed in the villa, another that it was a secret base for German submarines, and another that the villa is connected to the ocean by a tunnel. An airstrip is still visible today.
Today, the building is managed by a private individual and can be toured for a nominal fee when the owner is home. We learned from our guide that the villa is supposedly owned by a Spanish development company that wants to turn it into a hotel or restaurant in the future.
I must admit that this is quite a mystery for those interested in history.
Central part of the island
Ajuy
Ajuy is a small fishing village with an unusual cave carved into the cliffs by erosion and a black beach. To get to the cave you have to walk along the cliffs, which can be dangerous at times. The sight of the ocean waves crashing against the cliffs always makes a big impression on me. It reminds us how tiny we are in this world, in the face of this element. When the waves are bigger, they enter the cave. The site is a Monumento Natural de las Cuevas de Ajuy because the rocks are among the oldest on the island.
Mirador del Risco de Las Peñas
Mirador del Risco de Las Peñas, a viewpoint located 444 meters above sea level on a beautiful natural balcony. From the top, you have a panoramic view of the Granadillos Valley and the Presa de las Penitas reservoir, which supplies the island with water. This landscape shows the true face of Fuerteventura. The highlight of this viewpoint is the squirrels that come very close. You can even feed them from your hand. It is forbidden to feed them, but I think a nut won’t hurt them.
Betancuria
Betancuria is a small and charming town in the center of the island, described as the most beautiful town in Fuerteventura. The white houses with lush vegetation make you want to stay longer. Betancuria is also the first capital of the island, founded in a valley to protect it from pirate attacks. It owes its name to Jean de Betancourt, the conqueror of the island. The city has preserved many monuments that are on the Spanish Heritage List, including the church of Santa María in Betancuria with numerous works of art, the Casa Sanat Maria building, which now houses a restaurant (awarded Michelin stars for the most charming restaurant), and the Handicraft Center. If you have more time, you can visit the Museum of Sacred Art and the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography.
North of the island
Corralejo
Corralejo is a town in the north of the island and also the largest tourist resort. It is the most entertaining place on the island. However, Corralejo is most famous for its amazing dunes that stretch for several kilometers south of the city. The dunes of Corralejo are one of the biggest attractions of the island and a unique natural phenomenon that has been protected as a National Park (Parque Natural de las Dunas de Corralejo) since 1982. The dunes are located on both sides of the road, so just driving down the road makes an incredible impression as the roadway is constantly covered with sand. There is also a marina in Corralejo from which excursions are organized to the island of Lanzarote and the nearby islet of Lobos.
In the photos below you can observe the calima phenomenon.
Trip to Lanzarote
Lanzarote
Lanzarote is the most volcanic of the Canary Islands. You will not find lush vegetation here. The Spanish artist César Manrique (sculptor, painter, and architect) designed this island. The artist’s goal was to preserve the traditional low white buildings and a certain spatial order. He was an enemy of mass tourism. The island lacks large hotels and billboards. There is only one skyscraper that disturbs the landscape. It was built during César Manrique’s absence from the island.
Lanzarote can be reached by ferry from Fuerteventura. The trip takes about 30 minutes and you can also admire the island of Labos. We bought an organized day trip to explore Lanzarote. The tour was exhausting because we had to get up very early as we had to take the first ferry at 7:45 a.m. and our hotel was far away from the port. The tiredness was great, but the views were priceless.
Here is what we saw on this trip
Timanfaya National Park
Timanfaya National Park (also called Montañas del Fuego, which means Mountains of Fire) is the remarkable result of volcanic eruptions from 1730 to 1736. The park can only be visited in organized groups, traveling along the trail by bus or minibus. It is not possible to enter the park by car. It is not possible to get off the bus at the viewpoints. The road is winding and narrow. The 14-kilometer-long Volcano Trail (Ruta de los Volcanes) was designed by César Manrique. The artist also designed the El Diablo restaurant, where the main attraction is grilled food heated by the naturally bubbling volcanic heat.
As you drive through the park, you will see a very rugged volcanic landscape where lava has solidified. The whole area is still active and hot. The temperature a few centimeters below the surface is 100°C and at a depth of 10 meters, the temperature can reach 600°C.
The symbol of Timanfaya Park is the Devil, who greets visitors at the entrance to the park and whose image can be found on souvenirs. The devil’s image can also be seen on one of the volcano’s craters.
The lunar landscape of Timanfaya Park has been used as a set for Planet of the Apes and many commercials have been filmed here. It is a place often chosen by astronauts for training before space expeditions.
In the geyser area, you can participate in geothermal shows that prove that Lanzarote’s volcanoes are still active and hot. A park ranger throws a twig into a small hole, which burns for a moment, and then pours water, which immediately boils, creating an impressive geyser. The landscape of the park evokes extreme emotions. On the one hand, there is the fascination of experiencing something unusual, and on the other hand, there is the fear and horror of realizing that under our feet are a lot villages submerged by lava.
El Golfo
El Golfo is a small town with a crater and the unique green lake Charco de los Clicos. It owes its color to algae and natural organisms that accumulate in the water. The color of the water contrasts beautifully with the black sand and reddish color of the crater.
The lagoon can be viewed from the top of an observation balcony. It is a protected area and you cannot get too close to the lake. It is a special place.
You can enjoy the nearby black beach and children’s playground.
La Geria
La Geria is a region where the locals cultivate vines. They plant them in conical depressions in the ground where a layer of volcanic gravel called lapilli is deposited. Each bed (picón) is surrounded by a semicircular stone wall called a zoco, which protects the plants from the dry and strong winds that blow off the African continent.
It may seem surprising that anything can grow on volcanic soil. It turns out that a 30-centimeter layer of gravel, which absorbs moisture from the air overnight during the day, can effectively hold it in place. One obstacle to industrial-scale cultivation is the enormous labor intensity and negligible yield at harvest time.
The most famous winery is El Grifo, where there is a wine museum, “Museo del Vino”, where we can see old presses, pumps, and other equipment used in the winemaking process. Malvasía is the most popular grape variety grown in Lanzarote. It produces white wines that are highly concentrated and aromatic. This volcanic wine is certified with the D.O. Denomination of Origin. Lanzarote.
The vineyards of La Geria do not resemble the typical crops known from France or Portugal.
Jameos del Agua
Another unusual place on the island of Lanzarote designed by César Manrique is the Jameos del Agua. It is a complex of volcanic caves formed by the eruption of the Monte Corona volcano thousands of years ago. Inside these caves is the Art, Culture, and Tourism Center with a lake, the Atlantis Tunnel, a pool of turquoise water, and an auditorium carved out of a volcanic cave.
A highlight of the site is the tiny albino crabs that live in the lake. They are an endangered species.
In the auditorium, we can experience amazing acoustics. The auditorium is used for various cultural events and can accommodate about 550 people.
The cinematic side of Fuerteventura
Due to its original landscape, Fuerteventura has been the setting for many Spanish and international films. Among the most famous are:
- “Exodus: Gods and Kings 2014, directed by Ridley Scott,
- “Allied 2016, dir. Robert Zemeckis,
- “A Star Wars Story 2018, dir. Ron Howard.
The cost for 3 people (one adult and two children) is as follows:
Tourist trip (Hotel Sol Fuerteventura Jandia with half board + flight) PLN 9 069
- Tourist insurance – PLN 178
- Optional excursions purchased from Rico Canarias PLN 2 500 (check here)
- Food EUR 112
- Other expenses EUR 43
The total cost for three people is PLN 12 407 ( EUR 2885).
In conclusion, the island of Fuerteventura is very interesting and has a lot to offer, but for me it is too sparse in vegetation. Definitely the beautiful beaches add to the charm of the island.