Madeira
Madeira is an island of dreams. It is not without reason that it is called the European Hawaii. The vegetation is so lush and colorful nowhere else I have met so far. The pleasant climate of eternal spring, without tiring heat – this is what I like best. The conditions were ideal for exploring the island. To confirm its uniqueness, Madeira has won the World Travel Awards six times in a row “Europe’s Leading Island Destination”, i.e. for the leading island destination in Europe in 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, and 2014, 2013. You can check (here) and (here).
We visited Madeira in April 2023 and again we went alone without children. I think it was a good idea because the island has so much to offer that it would be a shame to spend time in one place. Unfortunately, with children, it is difficult to stick to a tight schedule. Madeira is definitely a place for the active.
Where is Madeira located?
Madeira is located in the Atlantic Ocean, close to the Canary Islands and Africa. The flight from Poland takes about 5 hours. It is a volcanic island with an area of 742 km² and its dimensions are 57 km long and 22 km wide. Madeira is part of an underwater volcano, of which the island is the highest peak and one of the largest volcanoes in the world, as it measures as much as 5,500 meters. Most of the volcano is underwater and only 1/3 of the volcanic rock is on the surface. To this day, it is considered a dormant volcano and unlikely to erupt.
Madeira Airport
The airport is ranked as one of the most dangerous in the world and became famous for this title thanks to three air disasters between 1973 and 1977. The most tragic one occurred on November 19, 1977, when a plane of Portuguese airline TAP flying from Brussels landed in difficult weather conditions. The plane touched the runway with its wheels and skidded, then fell off the runway and slid off a cliff. 131 people out of 164 died. After this tragedy, a decision was made to rebuild the runway, which was extended by 200 meters. Unfortunately, farther away was only the Ocean. In 2000, the runway was extended again to 2781 meters, but in this case, a platform was built on 180 columns, each 70 meters high. This innovative design was recognized and awarded in 2004 by the International Association of Bridges and Structures.
In 2016, the airport underwent another modernization, this time focusing on the terminal and the renovation of the runway and taxiway. A new name for the airport was also announced, Aeroporto da Madeira Cristiano Ronaldo, in honor of Madeira soccer player Cristiano Ronaldo.
Currently, opinions still circulate that Madeira’s airport is unsafe. Now it’s more due to the harsh weather conditions. The airport’s mountainous location over the Atlantic makes it vulnerable to strong winds. It is very common for planes to be diverted to the nearby Canary Islands and wait for weather conditions to improve before attempting to land again. There is a slightly faster solution. If the planes landed on the nearby island of Porto Santo (about 43 km from Madeira) and the tourists were transported by ferry to Madeira it would be faster and certainly less stressful for the passengers. Unfortunately, at the moment, the Madeira government has not yet made such a decision. We were lucky. We landed and took off without any problems. The only thing is that the landing was dynamic and my ears experienced unpleasant pain.
It is worth mentioning that pilots landing in Madeira have to undergo additional training necessary to perform takeoff and landing operations.
The airport is not large and has a nice terrace on the first floor, where you can watch the plane preparing for take-off while waiting for your departure.
Weather
Madeira is located in a subtropical climate zone with a year-round spring and summer season. The summer months are from May to September, and September is considered the warmest month, with temperatures reaching 26℃. There is a pleasant spring temperature all year round. In April, we had from 17-22 ℃. It was mostly sunny but mornings and evenings were cool around 12-15 ℃.
As for the water temperature, it’s worth remembering that these are Ocean waters, so the temperature oscillates between 17-22 ℃.
The capital of the island Funchal
The city of Funchal is divided into two parts: lower and upper. The lower part is the center, where you’ll find the harbor, the promenade, the local market, the old town, and the Cristiano Ronaldo museum. The upper part is the Monte district, where there are tropical gardens and mainly locals live. It’s worth planning a tour of the city over two days. And that’s what we did.
On the first day, we wandered around the center and spent some time on the rocky beach. In the city, I was captivated by the beautiful paintings on the doors, and there is a story behind them. Zona Velha is the oldest part of Funchal, and until 2010 it was the most dangerous neighborhood in the city and for that reason closed to tourism. Thanks to the initiative of local residents and artists, everything changed. They were given permission and paint to revitalize the neighborhood. The result was that the district looked attractive which encouraged people to open cafes and restaurants. Since then, the district has been bustling with activity.
On the second day, we went to Monte Hill. You can get there by Teleferico train to Funchal (one way €12.50, two ways €18 per person), by bus or car. We chose the bus option for €10 one way and two people. It took us a while to find the right bus stop (No. 20). It turned out that the intercity buses start from under the train station, and the city stops are closer to the old town. Three attractions await us at the top: Monte Palace Tropical Garden, Jardim Botanico Botanical Garden, and a toboggan ride from Monte to downtown Funchal. We only visited the Monte Palac garden. At the ticket offices, you get a tour plan in one of three languages (English, German, or French). The garden is impressive. It delights with its diversity and size. The beautiful vegetation and resting places make you not want to leave the place. You can also watch the sleigh ride from above. This attraction is very popular. The line at the ticket offices and the price did not encourage us. The descent takes about 10 minutes.
St. Lawrence Peninsula (Ponta de Sao Lourenco)
The St. Lawrence Peninsula is the easternmost part of Madeira and is a must-see tourist spot. It is a breathtakingly beautiful place. We saw only a substitute for this beauty, as we didn’t go trekking due to indisposition (a route of about 8 km round trip). What we saw will still be memorable for us. It is a semi-desert landscape, completely different from the rest of the island. There is not a single tree here and there are huge cliffs, rocks, and the rough Ocean. It is a very windy place due to the open space. You have to be careful and not go to the edge when there are no barriers. It is advisable to dress warmer and get a hat or hood. We parked next to the Miradouro da Ponta do Rosto viewpoint (click here).
In March 2023 they were filming scenes for Star Wars at this location and therefore it was closed to tourists. Also, there were communication restrictions in several places.
Miradouro do Guindaste Viewpoint
The next stop to admire the cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean was the free Miradouro do Guindaste viewpoint. It is a beautiful panoramic view of the northern coast of Madeira. In good weather, you can see the nearby island of Porto Santo.
Santana
Santana is a small town with colorful triangular houses. These houses are one of the symbols of Madeira because this is how traditional houses looked like. The ones we can find in the town are just a few pieces and now there are souvenir stores. I personally was not impressed by them. I guess I don’t like the combination of these colors (red and blue)😉 Maybe it’s worth having a photo with them. When we arrived in Santana we were caught in heavy rain, so we didn’t delve further.
Miradouro Cabo Girão Viewpoint
Miradouro Cabo Girão is another viewpoint this time with a fee (€2 per person). Cabo Girão is a cliff (one of the higher ones in Europe) that protrudes from the ocean at a height of 589 m. At the top of this cliff is an observation deck with a glass floor. The landscape is, of course, breathtaking. The view to the horizon, where the grade merges with the sky. Entering the terrace gives you a thrill as you see the cliff, the rocks, and the Ocean under your feet. By the time we visited this vantage point, the terrace was a bit crowded. Finding Cabo Girão on a map and getting there does not cause any problems. Free parking can be found on-site.
Waterfall of Angels (Cascata dos Anjos)
Waterfall dos Anjos is a waterfall located between Madalena do Mar and Ponta do Sol. The waterfall cascades down a rock onto an old regional road and falls into the Ocean. The waterfall once served as a free car wash. Currently, the road is closed to vehicular traffic. To get to it you have to park in front of the tunnel and walk about 1 km. Just walking through the tunnel is an interesting experience without access to daylight, but fortunately, there were small lighting points. There are those who drive through the tunnel by car despite the ban. Along the way, we met other smaller waterfalls. Angel Falls itself is a beautiful experience – refreshing water falling from the rock onto the street. A short distance away you can feel the breeze of this natural wonder. Tourists come here with towels. The waterfall is located on a bend and there are safety walls on the street. Unfortunately, in January 2023 a Pole died there. He probably wanted to take a super photo, stood on the wall, and fell on the rocks. From what we saw the wall was slippery and covered with moss from the water. Unfortunately, this was not the only case of mindless death of a tourist. They also happened in other parts of the island. People stand on the escarpments to take a super selfie and forget that at times the island has gusty winds or is simply slippery. Three tourists died last year and their bodies were swept away by the Ocean.
Pico do Ariero
Pico do Arieiro is Madeira’s third-highest peak (1,818 m) and the easiest, as you can take a very good road (winding, of course) to the top. At the top, there is a parking lot, a convenience store, the spherical antenna of Radar Station No. 4 of the Portuguese Air Force, and of course, amazing views. No public transportation gets there, so either a car or an organized tour will take you there. The most beautiful mountain trail in Madeira begins at Pico do Arieiro. It is marked PR1 called Vereda do Areeiro and leads to the island’s highest peak, Pico Ruivo (1862m). We chose to reach the summit by car. The sky was cloudless, so we could enjoy the panorama. At the top, it was about 12℃ and windy. It’s worth checking on the webcam what the conditions are like on the mountain. In cloudy weather, we won’t be able to admire too much (check here).
Vereda dos Balcões PR 11
Let me start with what a levada (Vereda) is. These are canals used to transport water in Madeira from the northern part to the southern part. The levadas were created in the second half of the 15th century and their creation was closely related to agriculture. To date, they support agriculture. The length of all the levadas is about 3100 km and they are located all over the island. Around the levadas have been created hiking trails longer and shorter, as well as more difficult and easier. There is something for everyone.
We chose the Vereda dos Balcões levada. It is counted among the easiest, as it measures 3 km in both directions without any unnecessary dangers. It takes about 1.5h to walk the route. The road is wide, flat and pleasant. It ends at the Balcoes viewpoint (balcony), where you can admire the highest peak of Pico Ruivo and you can also feed the small birds (as long as you have some grain). The birds are tame enough to sit on your hand. Unfortunately, we had no food for them. On the way back we stopped for a delicious coffee and a beautiful view.
The town of São Vincente
São Vincente is located right on the seafront at the mouth of the Rierira de São Vincente River in a picturesque valley, between two huge mountains that really spice things up. Also, the beach with large rocks and the Ocean crashing against them makes you want to stay here forever. The town is located from Funchal approx. 30 min drive
Miradouro do Véu da Noiva Viewpoint
I find the Miradouro do Véu da Noiva Viewpoint on the way from São Vicente to Seixal, so on our way to the beach, we visited this place. Here we find the Véu da Noiva waterfall, the beauty of which can be admired from the viewpoint. Of course, the cliffs, the waterfall, and the Ocean do an amazing job.
Seixal Beach
This is a beach with black volcanic sand surrounded by cliffs overgrown with lush vegetation. The cliffs are only on the right side, and there is a breakwater on the other side, which somewhat spoils this fabulous view. How more photos of this beach I watched before leaving, the greater my surprise was, because none of them showed this wall. The beach is not very big and is one of the few in Madeira that is sandy, and the sand is fine, silky and black. Something beautiful against the backdrop of the Ocean and green cliffs and there is even a tiny waterfall. This view was truly Hawaiian to me. It is a very fashionable place for photo shoots. It’s worth mentioning that the beach has no infrastructure, so you won’t encounter deck chairs with umbrellas. There are no major problems with getting to the beach, just select Praia do Porto do Seixal in the navigation.
Miradouro da Eira da Achada Viewpoint
Miradouro da Eira da Achada is a viewpoint where you will find two swings with a beautiful view of the Ocean. It’s a very Instagram-able spot, and since it’s on the way to Porto Moniz so we stopped here for a while. There were a few people, so you had to wait your turn to use the swings. The pressure of having someone waiting behind you until you vacate your seat somewhat takes away from the charm of the place. I couldn’t quietly enjoy the view from the swing, but I still recommend visiting this spot.
Natural Pools in Porto Moniz
The Natural Pools of Porto Moniz are located in the northern part of Madeira and are pools of volcanic origin. They were formed over millennia by the solidification of lava in the Ocean. The size of the pools is impressive, as they cover approx. 3800 m², and there is a two-meter deep pool and a shallower one for small children. There is a fee to enter the pool, but at a very affordable price i.e. €3 per adult. Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to use the pools, because on the day we visited the place, the pools were closed due to the rough Ocean. We stopped for a while at a nearby restaurant overlooking the pools and the Ocean. We enjoyed the moment.
Laurisilva Forest Fanal
The Fanal Forest is a prehistoric laurel forest in Madeira that is located between the Seixal and Ribeira da Janela mountains and is several million years old! This forest is one of the few of its kind left in the world and was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1999. Trees found in it include laurel, til, barbusan tree, Madeira mahogany, and lily of the valley. The laurel forest has a microclimate, there is a lot of rainfall and moisture in the area. Often, the forest also produces fog, which is why you may encounter the name foggy forest or magic forest. During foggy weather, it is an excellent place for photo shoots. Unfortunately, in our case, we didn’t manage to encounter fog in the forest, so the place didn’t give us all its charm either. People come here a few times at a time and hunt for the fog. They say that because of it you can feel like a fairy tale. We were in the evening because it was our last point of the day. It is worth mentioning that in the forest you will find cows grazing.
Plants
As I mentioned in the introduction, the vegetation in Madeira is beautiful and delights at every turn. Everywhere present Royal Strelitzia also called bird of paradise, bougainvillea, oleander, hydrangeas, agave, monstera, canna, banana crops, cottonwood trees, palm trees, and many others whose names I do not know.
Our plan to explore the island
Day one
Sightseeing tour of downtown Funchal on foot
Day two
Sightseeing on foot and communication at the Monte site
Day three
Car tour: Ponta de Sao Lourenco, Miradouro do Guindaste, Santana, Miradouro Cabo Girao, Cascata dos Anjos
Day four
Car excursion: Pico de Ariero, Vereda dos Balcões PR 11
Day five
Excursion by car: São Vincente, Miradouro do Véu da Noiva, Seixal Beach, Miradouro da Eira da Achada, Porto Moniz Natural Pools, Las Fanal
Day six
A walking tour of Funchal for souvenirs, delicious food at Papa Manuel Lido, and getting ready to head home.
Costs for 2 people
- Flight + hotel with breakfast 5666 PLN
- 1,6 €/L fuel, we refueled for 50 €.
- Group B car (Panda) 220€ (4 days). I recommend renting a car from Richard Baraban (you can find him on Facebook) or (here).
- Monte Palace tropical garden entrance fee €25
- Restaurant food x 2 at 76€ each
- 2 city all-day tickets €10
- Shopping at the local ladybug Pingo Doce approx. 100€
- Travel insurance PLN 133
- The total cost for two people is about 8, 000 PLN.
In summary, we visited most of the major points. Of course, one could probably do more intensively or less. It already depends on our condition and willingness. However, I feel unsatisfied. I think two weeks is the perfect time to slowly enjoy the nature of Madeira. Maybe someday I will return to this beautiful place on earth, but for the time being my personal ranking is still won by Tenerife, where you will find similar vegetation and climate but definitely more sandy beaches.
